Escape From Blackness: Once Upon a Time in Creole AmericaPosted in Articles, History, Louisiana, Media Archive, Passing, United States on 2020-10-29 01:55Z by Steven |
Escape From Blackness: Once Upon a Time in Creole America
The Village Voice
2019-12-04
Originally published on 1994-12-08 as âFade to Black: Once Upon a Time in Multi-Racial Americaâ
Joe Wood
âGrowing up in New Orleans,â you told me later, âit would be impossible to see race as anything but socially constructed. But that doesnât mean itâs not real.â
âMETTĂ MILATE
ENHAUT CHOUAL,
LI VA DĂ NĂGRESSE PAS
SO MAMAN.ââJUST PUT A
MULATTO ON HORSEBACK,
AND HEâLL TELL
YOU HIS MOTHER WASNâT
A NEGRESS.ââCreole proverb, as translated
by Lafcadio Hearn, 1885
NEW ORLEANS â It was late and the show was finished. We were hungry and drunk. Adolph said MulĂ©âs was probably closed by now but he knew a place to eat on the other side of town. âMaybe youâll see some of them over there, too,â he said. Adolph is a scholar of African American history and politics, and he was raised in New Orleans and knew how they looked and where they ate. They liked MulĂ©âs, a seventh-ward diner that serves the best oyster rolls in the city. The other place, Adolph said, was also good for observations, but far below seventh-ward culinary standards. It turned out to be an all-night fast-food joint, lighted too brightly, with a listless crowd of party people waiting in broken lines for some uninspired fried fare.
For a moment I forgot entirely about them and they. I wanted to try an oyster roll but there were none left, so I ordered a chicken sandwich âdressedâ with lettuce and tomato and mayonnaise. The woman at the cash register seemed bored by my enthusiasm, and sighed, and in response I noted her skin color. She was dark. I turned my head and checked out two sleepy-eyed girls in the next line. They looked tired in their frilly prom dresses; their skin was waxen, the sad pale finish of moonlight. I knew â oh, I hesitated a moment, because I could see how a hasty eye might have thought them white, but I knew. Turning to Adolph I whispered âcreoleâ and made giant drunken nod in their direction. Adolph looked and confirmed it: they were, in fact, them…
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